General installation instruction

General installation instruction header
Technical assistance

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Coating cut ends

Coating cut ends instruction

Pipe ends need to be re-coated with touch-up paint.

We recommend protecting the cut ends with the same standard as the pipe's internal coating: in this instance, you can use EXTREM 1, a new quick drying touch-up paint that air dries in 15 minutes.

Coating cut ends

Coating cut ends instruction

Pipe ends need to be re-coated with touch-up paint.

We recommend protecting the cut ends with the same standard as the pipe's internal coating: in this instance, you can use EXTREM 1, a new quick drying touch-up paint that air dries in 15 minutes.

EXTREM 1 instructions

Drying time (for 200 microns dry)

  Drying time Recovery intervals
Temperature Touch up dry Dry hard Minimum Maximum
10°C 30 45 30 Non-critical
20°C 10 30 10 Non-critical
30°C 5 20 5 Non-critical

 

Number of edges coated per diameter with a 250 ml jar (i.e. 0.5 kg)

DN Number of edge coated
50 130
75 90
100 70
125 55
150 45
200 35
250 20
300 15

 

Overpainting method

The acrylic paint on the pipes is a primer which can be over painted with most top coats. Finishing paint is needed where the pipework is visible, indoor or outdoor.

What types of paint can be used? Any alkyd resin or glycerophtalic paint designed for metal care and suitable for the requirements of the local environment. The system should be gently rubbed down with suitable abrasive paper to provide a good adhesion key for the finishing coating. Where the finishing paint is to be used on zinc-coated pipes to rejuvenate them, rub them down gently to remove possible zinc salts.

Where incipient rust has already appeared on cast iron products, corrosion inhibitors can be used before painting. Some existing metal finishes, including anti-corrosive pigment, can be applied directly to rust.

Overpainting method

The acrylic paint on the pipes is a primer which can be over painted with most top coats. Finishing paint is needed where the pipework is visible, indoor or outdoor.

What types of paint can be used? Any alkyd resin or glycerophtalic paint designed for metal care and suitable for the requirements of the local environment. The system should be gently rubbed down with suitable abrasive paper to provide a good adhesion key for the finishing coating. Where the finishing paint is to be used on zinc-coated pipes to rejuvenate them, rub them down gently to remove possible zinc salts.

Where incipient rust has already appeared on cast iron products, corrosion inhibitors can be used before painting. Some existing metal finishes, including anti-corrosive pigment, can be applied directly to rust.

Watch how to protect the cut end of a cast iron pipe using Extrem 1?

Cutting a pipe

We recommend to use three different cutting machines according to the pipe nominal diameter (DN) - a band saw for pipes with DN ≤ 125 - an exact saw for pipes with DN ≤ 200 - a powered disc cutter for pipes DN ≤ 600 Cutting procedures must comply with the safety guidelines provided in the cutting tool manufacturer’s operating manual.

Cutting a pipe

We recommend to use three different cutting machines according to the pipe nominal diameter (DN) - a band saw for pipes with DN ≤ 125 - an exact saw for pipes with DN ≤ 200 - a powered disc cutter for pipes DN ≤ 600 Cutting procedures must comply with the safety guidelines provided in the cutting tool manufacturer’s operating manual.

How to cut a cast iron pipe? [PAM TUTORIAL]

MODIFICATIONS TO AN EXISTING INSTALLATION

Typical example of a spigot system

  1. Measure the length of the branch, adding a further 15 mm in total to allow for the coupling’s central register top and bottom.
  2. Make sure existing pipework is adequately supported from above.
  3. Mark the pipe position for cutting.
  4. Cut the pipe using a powered disc cutter or wheel cutter and remove sharp edges.
  5. Coat the cut ends with the appropriate touch-up product (epoxy coating).
  6. Push the rubber gaskets onto the spigot cut ends top and bottom, ensuring the central registers are abutted against each spigot edge.
  7. Position the fitting in the stack within each rubber gasket abutting against the central registers.
  8. Loosely assemble the coupling around each gasket.
  9. Check alignment of assembly before tightening the bolts to the recommended level, depending on the coupling's technical recommendations.
  10. Test the new stack for successful joints.

MODIFICATIONS TO AN EXISTING INSTALLATION

Typical example of a spigot system

  1. Measure the length of the branch, adding a further 15 mm in total to allow for the coupling’s central register top and bottom.
  2. Make sure existing pipework is adequately supported from above.
  3. Mark the pipe position for cutting.
  4. Cut the pipe using a powered disc cutter or wheel cutter and remove sharp edges.
  5. Coat the cut ends with the appropriate touch-up product (epoxy coating).
  6. Push the rubber gaskets onto the spigot cut ends top and bottom, ensuring the central registers are abutted against each spigot edge.
  7. Position the fitting in the stack within each rubber gasket abutting against the central registers.
  8. Loosely assemble the coupling around each gasket.
  9. Check alignment of assembly before tightening the bolts to the recommended level, depending on the coupling's technical recommendations.
  10. Test the new stack for successful joints.
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