General installation instruction
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Coating cut ends
Coating cut ends instruction
Pipe ends need to be re-coated with touch-up paint.
We recommend protecting the cut ends with the same standard as the pipe's internal coating: in this instance, you can use EXTREM 1, a new quick drying touch-up paint that air dries in 15 minutes.
Coating cut ends
Coating cut ends instruction
Pipe ends need to be re-coated with touch-up paint.
We recommend protecting the cut ends with the same standard as the pipe's internal coating: in this instance, you can use EXTREM 1, a new quick drying touch-up paint that air dries in 15 minutes.
EXTREM 1 instructions
Drying time (for 200 microns dry)
| Drying time | Recovery intervals | |||
| Temperature | Touch up dry | Dry hard | Minimum | Maximum |
| 10°C | 30 | 45 | 30 | Non-critical |
| 20°C | 10 | 30 | 10 | Non-critical |
| 30°C | 5 | 20 | 5 | Non-critical |
Number of edges coated per diameter with a 250 ml jar (i.e. 0.5 kg)
| DN | Number of edge coated |
| 50 | 130 |
| 75 | 90 |
| 100 | 70 |
| 125 | 55 |
| 150 | 45 |
| 200 | 35 |
| 250 | 20 |
| 300 | 15 |
Overpainting method
The acrylic paint on the pipes is a primer which can be over painted with most top coats. Finishing paint is needed where the pipework is visible, indoor or outdoor.
What types of paint can be used? Any alkyd resin or glycerophtalic paint designed for metal care and suitable for the requirements of the local environment. The system should be gently rubbed down with suitable abrasive paper to provide a good adhesion key for the finishing coating. Where the finishing paint is to be used on zinc-coated pipes to rejuvenate them, rub them down gently to remove possible zinc salts.
Where incipient rust has already appeared on cast iron products, corrosion inhibitors can be used before painting. Some existing metal finishes, including anti-corrosive pigment, can be applied directly to rust.
Overpainting method
The acrylic paint on the pipes is a primer which can be over painted with most top coats. Finishing paint is needed where the pipework is visible, indoor or outdoor.
What types of paint can be used? Any alkyd resin or glycerophtalic paint designed for metal care and suitable for the requirements of the local environment. The system should be gently rubbed down with suitable abrasive paper to provide a good adhesion key for the finishing coating. Where the finishing paint is to be used on zinc-coated pipes to rejuvenate them, rub them down gently to remove possible zinc salts.
Where incipient rust has already appeared on cast iron products, corrosion inhibitors can be used before painting. Some existing metal finishes, including anti-corrosive pigment, can be applied directly to rust.
Watch how to protect the cut end of a cast iron pipe using Extrem 1?
Cutting a pipe
We recommend to use three different cutting machines according to the pipe nominal diameter (DN) - a band saw for pipes with DN ≤ 125 - an exact saw for pipes with DN ≤ 200 - a powered disc cutter for pipes DN ≤ 600 Cutting procedures must comply with the safety guidelines provided in the cutting tool manufacturer’s operating manual.
Cutting a pipe
We recommend to use three different cutting machines according to the pipe nominal diameter (DN) - a band saw for pipes with DN ≤ 125 - an exact saw for pipes with DN ≤ 200 - a powered disc cutter for pipes DN ≤ 600 Cutting procedures must comply with the safety guidelines provided in the cutting tool manufacturer’s operating manual.
How to cut a cast iron pipe? [PAM TUTORIAL]
MODIFICATIONS TO AN EXISTING INSTALLATION
Typical example of a spigot system
- Measure the length of the branch, adding a further 15 mm in total to allow for the coupling’s central register top and bottom.
- Make sure existing pipework is adequately supported from above.
- Mark the pipe position for cutting.
- Cut the pipe using a powered disc cutter or wheel cutter and remove sharp edges.
- Coat the cut ends with the appropriate touch-up product (epoxy coating).
- Push the rubber gaskets onto the spigot cut ends top and bottom, ensuring the central registers are abutted against each spigot edge.
- Position the fitting in the stack within each rubber gasket abutting against the central registers.
- Loosely assemble the coupling around each gasket.
- Check alignment of assembly before tightening the bolts to the recommended level, depending on the coupling's technical recommendations.
- Test the new stack for successful joints.
MODIFICATIONS TO AN EXISTING INSTALLATION
Typical example of a spigot system
- Measure the length of the branch, adding a further 15 mm in total to allow for the coupling’s central register top and bottom.
- Make sure existing pipework is adequately supported from above.
- Mark the pipe position for cutting.
- Cut the pipe using a powered disc cutter or wheel cutter and remove sharp edges.
- Coat the cut ends with the appropriate touch-up product (epoxy coating).
- Push the rubber gaskets onto the spigot cut ends top and bottom, ensuring the central registers are abutted against each spigot edge.
- Position the fitting in the stack within each rubber gasket abutting against the central registers.
- Loosely assemble the coupling around each gasket.
- Check alignment of assembly before tightening the bolts to the recommended level, depending on the coupling's technical recommendations.
- Test the new stack for successful joints.
Download our brochure for more information
Download our brochure for more information about the General installation instructions.
Coating and Installation – A Complete Approach
When executing a drainage project, it's important to consider the broader installation context:
| Element | Importance |
|---|---|
| Pipe Cut-End Coating | Prevents corrosion, maintains internal system protection |
| Correct Pipe Cutting Tools | Ensures a clean, accurate cut for tight fitting and easy build |
| Ground Preparation | Avoids slope or grade inconsistencies and trench misalignment |
| Gravel or fabric base | Improves drain flow and stability inside the trench |
| Touch-Up Product Selection | Must match original system coating performance |
Example: Drainage Around a Building Foundation
When installing a drain system around a building foundation:
- Dig a trench at the base of the foundation wall.
- Add a layer of gravel and a fabric liner to improve drainage and reduce soil clogging.
- Lay the pipe with proper slope to ensure water flow.
- Coat any cut ends with EXTREM 1.
- Ensure that all joints are sealed and supported at the bottom of the trench.
- If pools of water remain near the yard or foot of the wall, consider adding a sump pump.
FAQ – Coating Cut Ends
What happens if I don’t re-coat pipe ends after cutting?
Without coating, the exposed metal is susceptible to corrosion, leading to leaks and structural weakness in the drainage system.
Can I use any paint for cut ends?
No. Only use touch-up paints compatible with the original coating, like EXTREM 1, and make sure they suit the local environmental conditions.
Is trench preparation really necessary for indoor installations?
Yes, especially near concrete floor or basement areas where trapped moisture and poor ventilation can accelerate damage.
Do I need to re-coat ends even if they're hidden underground?
Yes. Hidden pipe ends are still exposed to soil, water, and pressure, which can compromise the system if left unprotected.